This is a random first blog entry to kind of test the waters. I wanted to
introduce you guys to a more learning aspect for those inspiring fashion
designers, fashion bloggers or just any ole random individual that has an
interest in the behind the seams production of creating garments from
scratch. Mikado fabrics are luxurious type of silk that have a heavier weight, therefore
a great choice if you want to give structure to a garment. As Mikado is one of
my favorite fabrics to use, It was a must to complete this peplum style corset
in a Blue Turquoise hue that would complement the Spring and Summer vibes. I
absolutely love the slight shine of this fabric, which screams expensive and
quality. This design is ideal for any lavish occasion such as a formal event, a
night out on the dance floor or a birthday celebration outfit. Below I’ve included a photo tutorial explaining how I completed my design.
Materials & Supplies Used
* 1 1/2 yards of Mikado Fabric * 1 yard of Lining * 1 Jacket/ Coat Zipper * Muslin * Style Tape * Fabric Scissors * Seam Ripper* Juki Industrial Sewing Machine * 100% Polyester Thread color 132a9 * Pearl Ball Straight Pins* Tracing Paper
STEP 1 : Creating a Muslin Drape. Muslin can be used for clothing, upholstery, curtains and sewing patterns. It can also be used as the backing or lining for quilts. Muslin is (and was from its existence) used for making test garments before more expensive fabric is used.
Muslin, plain-woven cotton fabric made in various weights. The better qualities of muslin are fine and smooth in texture and are woven from evenly spun warps and wefts, or fillings. They are given a soft finish, bleached or piece-dyed, and are sometimes patterned in the loom or printed.
Step 2 Converting the drape to a paper. In sewing and fashion design, a pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before being cut out and assembled. Patterns are usually made of paper, and are sometimes made of sturdier materials like paperboard or cardboard if they need to be more robust to withstand repeated use.
Once each pattern is completely traced onto tracing paper, carefully pin to the desired selected fabric ( as I am using Mikado). Start by placing the pattern pieces, following correct grain-lines, pin flat and cut using fabric scissors. As a tip to speed up production, you can double the fabric in half also included lining and interfacing as I did.
When all the pattern pieces are cut, leaving a half an inch seam allowance, removing the tracing pattern you can start matching each panel together with pins to sew along the seam allowance 1/2 inch line. Place the construction on your dress form to check the fit. If any adjustments are required, now is the time to make those corrections.
Step 5: Being that I am designing a corset, it is necessary to include padding into the bra cups to create support and shape. In order to achieve this, I used Neoprene scuba purchased from the garment district. Neoprene fabric has a content of 90% polyester and 10% spandex. This fabric is also approximately 1.5 mm thick, with insulated microfibers integrated within the fabric. These fibers are extremely strong and gives the fabric a spongy feel. In the last image, I also stitched in 1” stripes of Rigilene polyester boning. Boning is specially created to give shape and support to corsets and other strapless garments that need help with support. This type of boning is extremely light weight and it’s possible to sew it into position straight onto the garment or the lining. As you can also see, I used masking tape on the raw edges to prevent from poking through the materials.
Step 6: Connect the top edge of self to the already sewn lining, finishing off with 1/2 inch seam allowance. All seams are suppose to match flawlessly. Flip the fabric on it’s right side, and exposed seams will be hidden, finger molding the bra cup to get rid of any bubbles or puckering.
Step 7 Clothes tag will be stitched in along with sewing in an jacket zipper. Jacket zippers separate at the bottom completely, just like the zipper on your jacket. There is a pin and box at one end, and the pin hooks into the box to start the zipper. I used this zipper for functionality.
Step 8 Iron-on Rhinestones appliques as a fancy decorative finish. I literally had a yard of this rhinestone applique for a year and didn’t know what to do with it, but lucky it came in handy for this design. Now it’s completed and ready to wear!!
Should I make a YouTube Channel?
Lately the thoughts of starting a YouTube channel kept popping up in my head, but before I make that commitment the question is would you subscribe??? If so, leave a comment on my most recent Instagram post @cheayrochelle YOUTUBE PLEASE ;)
Interested in purchasing this original design? It’s now available HERE
See you on my next post :)